Geoff and Raff took me out to go surfing at Granite, well they surfed and I got to attempt it.
The first thing I learned was that the boards are very light for how large they are.
The second thing I learned is that the boards are actually quite heavy. It may be light as a feather at first but carrying that board ~5k uphill in bare feet then climbing down the side of a cliff the board seems to just get heavier and heavier as you go. Carrying it back it was even heavier.
Then Geoff taught me how to use the leg leash and off we went! (I am right handed but board left foot back, apparently this is strange) Paddling out wasn't too hard one you get past the breaking waves. Out there I got to practice sitting up and paddling around trying to stay out of everyone's way. As I got better at that, Geoff said I should try and catch a wave just laying on the board. That attempt sort of failed as will happen with beginners. I totally ate wave and flipped end over end than got ran over at least by my board and maybe Raff. All the joys of learning to surf. I then paddled back out to wait another try. Getting board paddling around and sitting watching the guys I started watching for fish and turtles. There was even some dolphins in the distance. If you get sea sick I don't recommend doing watching the sea-life and getting distracted. Sad to say I am the first anyone at this house has heard of getting sea sick on a board. I was good enough not to fall off and roll with the waves but I AM lame enough to get sea sick. It was cool watching the fish trying to eat the jellyfish though! So feeling a bit nauseous I went back to shore to watch the guys finish their surf and back home we went after the obligatory 7/11 run for coffee.
"I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train" -Oscar Wilde
